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Table Saw Guide Rails – Step by Step Instruction

STEP 1: MEASURE

The first step in making your own table saw guide rail is to measure the table and extension table. Angle iron is almost always shorter than tubing in guide rail design builds. The angle iron is generally cut to the exact length of the cast iron saw plus the extension table. The rectangular tubing will over hang on each end; up to 6 inches total overhang on short guide rails and up to a foot total on longer guide rails e.g. 7″ right 5″ left.

NOTE: If you still aren’t sure about your specific guide rail requirements, watch AskWoodMan’s short video: How To Determine Your Guide Rails Specs.

Metric and SAE measuring tools on shop table with small dog
Papi the shop dog trying to decide, metric or SAE? (fig.1a)

STEP 2: GET YOUR STEEL

Get your 3x3x1/4″ angle iron  and 3×2″ 11 gauge tubing.

NOTE: If you buy full lengths of steel you can often get a much better price. But if you don’t have a good way to transport long lengths and/or cut your steel, go ahead and let them cut it to your exact measurements. (fig.2a, 2b)

buy-your-steel
Allan uses his trailer and knots to transport steel, Papi inspects (fig.2a)

 

rough-steel-for-guide-rails
Rough angle iron and rectangular tubing for guide rail (fig.2b)

STEP 3: CUT STEEL TO LENGTH

If the steel supplier didn’t cut your steel to length, you will need to cut it yourself before you begin. Common cutting options for steel are a Portaband, angle grinder with cut off wheel, or sawzall with bimetal blade. Metal cutting chop saws will also work. (fig.3a, 3b, 3c, 3d)

diy-guide-rails-fig3a
You can cut steel with these tools (fig.3a)
diy-guide-rails-fig3b
Milwaukee Portaband (fig.3b)
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Milwaukee 5″ angle grinder with thin cutoff wheel (fig.3c)
diy-guide-rails-fig3d
Lennox Gold bimetal blade in sawzall (fig.3d)

STEP 4: CLEAN STEEL

Remove rust and scale with 3M Scotchbrite abrasive disc mounted on an angle grinder.

NOTE: Cleaning the steel needs to be done if you plan on priming and painting yourself. Cleaning the steel at the beginning of the project makes the whole fabrication process less dirty and grimy. If you plan to have the guide rail professionally powder coated, don’t waste your time cleaning because they will sandblast the steel to bare metal. (fig.4a)

cleaning-angle-iron

Cleaning steel (fig.4a)

STEP 5: EXAMINE TUBING

Examine your tubing in relation to the angle iron. Look for the interior weld bead. You’ll want to make sure that the weld bead is down and away from where the bolts will be connecting the angle iron to the tubing. The reason you want the bead on the bottom of the tubing is because sometimes there will be a slight distortion near the weld and you want the perfectly smooth surface on the top of your tubing guide rail. (fig.5a)

guide-rail-fabrication

Find the weld bead and avoid (fig.5a)

STEP 6: PARALLEL SPACING SET UP

Get your parallel spacing set up ready. You can use a long 3/4” bar or blocks for parallel spacing and blocks or dowels will work for lifts. You could have more than 3/4″ gap if necessary, but not less. 3/4″ is the absolute minimum spacing you need to have and it but be perfectly parallel.

NOTE: I used a long aluminum bar and old paint brush handles to act as a bar lift.  It’s important to lift the parallel spacer a little bit so that the inside radius of the angle iron does not interfere with spacer alignment. (fig.6a, 6b, 6c)

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Parallel Spacing Set-up (fig.6a)

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Parallel Spacing Set-up (fig.6b)

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Parallel Spacing Set-up (fig.6c)

STEP 7: MARK BOLT LINE ON BOTH

With your parallel spacer in place, mark the bolt line on one end of the tubing and bottom of the angle iron. Exact position isn’t critical for this, it doesn’t need to be centered, just pick a location that looks good and avoid the weld bead. This is your first reference for bolt placement. Each bolt location will be marked with intersecting lines in step 9 for exact drilling. (fig.7a, 7b, 7c)

marking-guide-rails-7a

With parallel spacing in place, mark bolt center line on angle iron (fig.7a)

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Marking bolt center line on tubing / angle iron (fig.7b)

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Step 7 complete, both iron and tubing marked (fig.7c)

STEP 8: DRAW ANGLE IRON HOLE SPACING LINES

Lay out the hole location along the bolt line on the angle iron using a ruler or tape. Start by marking lines 1″ in from each end.  Then equal spacing between the 1” inset lines, not to exceed 10 inches apart. When you are done you’ll have several lines perpendicular to the length of the angle iron.

NOTE: I mark the interior spacing locations with a scribed V and then come back in and draw a generous line through the point of the V with my combination square.  (fig.8a, 8b, 8c, 8d, 8e)

table-saw-guide-rails-8a

Using a scribe to mark 1 inch inset on angle iron (fig.8a)

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Pointing to inset scribe mark on angle iron (fig.8b)

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Marking a V at the second bolt hole location on angle iron (fig.8c)

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Close up of scribed V pointing to the exact bolt location (fig.8d)

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Drawing a line through the V with your scribe (fig.8e)

STEP 9: MAKE EXACT DRILL MARKS ON ANGLE IRON

Use a combination square and a scribe to mark your exact bolt locations. Make a scribe mark parallel to the length of the angle iron at each one of your marked drill locations.  These intersecting lines (cross marks) on angle iron will be center punched for drill location. (fig.9a, 9b, 9c)

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Scribing intersection line, parallel to angle iron length (fig.9a)

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Marking complete, pointing to exact bolt location (fig.9b)

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Using a center punch to make a mark for the drill bit to start (fig.9c)

It’s easy to make your own table saw guide rails, all you need is a little direction and a few crucial measurements.

STEP 10: DRILL FIRST HOLE SIZE ON ANGLE IRON

Using the drill press, drill these marked locations in the angle iron with a #7 twist drill bit. Drill all the way through.

NOTE: A 13/64” will also work if a #7 is not available.  (fig.10a)

table-saw-guide-rail-10a

Drilling holes all the way through with a #7 twist drill bit (fig.10a)

STEP 11: CLAMP TUBING TO ANGLE IRON

Clamp the tubing to the angle iron with your parallel spacing in place using your four clamps. This is where you decide the exact tubing overhang you want at either end. Be sure your  3/4” parallel spacer is properly in position with no interference.

NOTE: First you will clamp in final position (fig.11a) and then flip the clamped assembly upside down (fig.11b) in preparation for using the #7 drill bit to mark tap holes.

table-saw-guide-rail-11b

Flip clamped unit upside down to mark drill locations in tubing through angle iron holes (fig.11b)

(fig.11a)

With parallel spacing in place, clamp angle iron to tubing and determine overhang (fig.11a)

STEP 12: DRILL MARKS ON TUBING

Put the #7 drill bit in a hand held drill and use the already drilled holes in the angle iron as your template. Drill through the holes in the angle iron and mark on the tubing. You don’t need to drill all the way through the tubing. You are just making drill location marks. (fig.12a)

table-saw-guide-rail-12a

Drilling through the holes in the angle iron to mark drill tap locations on tubing (fig.12a)

STEP 13: UNCLAMP AND DRILL HOLES IN TUBING

Take the clamps off and take the tubing to the drill press. Drill through the tubing with the #7 drill bit on the drill marks. This is when you drill all the way through the marked side of the tubing. (fig.13a, 13b)

table-saw-guide-rail-13a

Unclamp tubing from angle iron (fig.13a)

table-saw-guide-rail-13b

Drill holes through marked location on tubing with #7 drill bit (fig.13b)

STEP 14: TAP HOLES IN TUBING

Now tap these #7 holes in the tubing with a 1/4” 20TPI tap. There are a variety of tools and methods to drive a tap. (fig.14a, 14b, 14c)

(14a)

Tap wrench, ratcheting tap wrench, spring loaded tapping center and vise grips (14a)

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Using a hand tapping machine to tap holes in tubing (fig.14b)

(14c)

Close up view of tapping holes with hand tapping machine (14c)

STEP 15: DRILL HOLES IN ANGLE IRON

Drill out the #7 holes in the angle iron to 5/16” on the drill press. (fig.15a, 15b)

table-saw-guide-rail-15a

Pointing to #7 holes in angle iron (fig.15a)

(fig.15b)

Drilling out holes in angle iron to 5/16″ with drill press (fig.15b)

STEP 16: BOLT ANGLE IRON TO TUBING

Attach your angle iron to the tubing with your 1/4” 20TPI bolts. Check that the holes in the angle iron align to the tapped holes in the tubing.

NOTE: It’s not necessary to have your spacers in place as you already have your drill marks, but I leave mine. (fig.16a)

(fig.16a)

Bolt angle iron to rectangular tubing, check alignment fig.16a)

STEP 17: CHECK SPACING

Now double check your spacing using your 3/4” parallel spacing set up. You should have just enough play (lateral adjustment) in both directions to comfortably tighten the tubing in position with the 3/4″ spacer in place. (fig.17a)

(fig.17a)

Checking your parallel spacing between angle iron and tubing (fig.17a)

STEP 18: DETERMINE CONNECTION LOCATION

Determine the connection locations on the table saw, bandsaw, or router table for the angle iron. (fig.18a)

(fig.18a)

Find and mark guide rail connection holes on your table (fig.18a)

STEP 19: DRILL HOLES INTO TABLE

Drill connection holes if necessary.

NOTE: You many already have holes in your table that you can use. (fig.19a)

(fig.19a)

Check for existing holes in table saw that you can use (fig.19a)

Making a solid table saw guide rail is the first thing to consider when looking to upgrade your saw.

STEP 20: CLAMP GUIDE RAIL TO TABLE

To hang the guide rail accurately in position you’ll need your step-down spacing set up. Two Milled, flat and straight, stout long boards and two small 13/16″ milled spacers. Cantilever the boards off the edge of the saw or table with clamps to hang the guide rail unit exactly 13/16” below the top of the table.

NOTE: This is the Biesmeyer standard step-down measurement. It must be exact. (fig.20a, 20b)

(fig.20a)

Angle iron and tubing clamped and hanging in place on table (fig.20a)

(fig.20b)

Close up, step down spacing to Biesemeyer guide rail specifications (fig.20b)

STEP 21: MARK HOLE LOCATIONS ON ANGLE IRON FROM TABLE

Use a drill bit the size of the connection holes, and a hand drill, transfer punch or a scribe to mark these hole locations on the back side of the angle iron. (fig.21a, 21b)

table-saw-guide-rails-21a

Marking from the back side through the table to the angle iron marking drill locations (fig.21a)

table-saw-guide-rails-21b

Holding the transfer punch used to mark hole locations (fig.21b)

STEP 22: UNCLAMP AND UNBOLT ALL

Unclamp guide rail from table. Then unbolt the tubing from the angle iron so that you can drill your holes. (fig.22a)

table-saw-guide-rails-22a

Unbolted angle iron with hole marks before drilling (fig.22a)

STEP 23: STEP DRILL HOLES IN ANGLE IRON

Take angle iron to the drill press and drill holes in the marked locations to 5/16”. It’s important to step drill (use two different sized bits). For the first hole drilling you will use a smaller bit (the same bit you used to make your drill marks). The second bit you use will be to size, 5/16″.
FIRST DRILLING STEP: The angle iron is positioned upside down as you are drilling out the holes located on the back side. SECOND DRILLING STEP: You will flip the angle iron over because that’s the side you will be countersinking. (fig.23a, 23b)

table-saw-guide-rails-23a

Drill holes on the back side of the angle iron with small bit (fig.23a)

table-saw-guide-rails-23b

Flip the angle iron and drill out holes again with 5/16″ bit (fig.23b)

STEP 24: COUNTERSINK ANGLE IRON

Still at the drill press, you now take an 82 degree 3/4” diameter countersink and countersink the inside of the angle iron at these 5/16” hole locations to the proper depth (slightly below flush for the 5/16” flat head grade 8 bolts).

NOTE: I recommend clamping the angle iron while countersinking to stop bit chatter. (fig.24a)

table-saw-guide-rails-24a

Countersinking 3/4″ diameter into angle iron at drill press (fig.24a)

STEP 25: HAND DRILL TABLE HOLES

Drill out connection holes in saw or table to 11/32”. (fig.25a)

table-saw-guide-rails-25a

Opening up connection holes to 11/32″ using a square piece of wood for accuracy (fig.25a)

STEP 26: SLIDE BOLTS IN ANGLE IRON

First put all of your bolts through the holes of the angle iron. Then on to step 27. (no image)

STEP 27: BOLT ANGLE IRON TO SAW

Now connect the angle iron to the saw or table with your 5/16” flat head bolts. You may need to do additional drilling to the table holes to open them up a bit ( not the angle iron, leave those holes alone! )

NOTE: This is just a test for alignment so don’t tighten too much when attaching. (fig.27a, 27b, 27c)

(fig.27a)

Bolting angle iron to the table for the first time (fig.27a)

guide-rails-27b

Close up of countersink bolt in angle iron (fig.27b)

(fig.27c)

Bolts in angle iron are lightly tighten before attaching tubing (fig.27c)

STEP 28: BOLT TUBING TO ANGLE IRON

With your angle iron in place, use both of your spacing set ups;  3/4” parallel spacing bar w/lifts and 13/16″ step-down blocks to position your tubing. When you are sure of position, bolt your tubing in place. (fig.28a)

table-saw-guide-rails-28a

Bolting tubing to angle iron with both spacing set ups in place (fig.28a)

STEP 29: TIGHTEN AND CHECK FIT

Now tighten connection bolts securely through angle iron and table and double check for final fit. Make sure both your parallel gap and your step-down spacing are accurate. (fig.29a)

table-saw-guide-rails-option-1

Cross section drawing of Biesemeyer style guide rail (fig.29a)

“Whether you have a new saw or an older model, many times the only thing keeping your saw from being a great saw is a proper table saw guide rail.”

STEP 30: MARK MITER CUT OUTS

If fit is correct, mark miter slot cut out location. (fig.30a, 30b)

table-saw-guide-rails-30a

Miter slot positioning and layout for router table (fig.30a)

table-saw-guide-rails-30b

Marking where to notch out the miter slot in angle iron (fig.30b)

STEP 31: UNBOLT EVERYTHING!

Unbolt the angle iron from the table and the tubing from the angle iron. (no image)

STEP 32: CUT MITER SLOT

Cut out notch in top of angle iron for miter slot. I drill a perforated pattern with my drill press to define the edge boundaries, then use the jig saw and a bimetal jig saw blade to complete the notch. (fig.32a, 32b, 32c)

table-saw-guide-rails-32a

Drilling holes (perforations) in miter slot marked area (fig.32a)

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Cutting out to scribed line with jig saw with bimetal blade(fig.32b)

table-saw-guide-rails-32c

Rough cut out of miter slot before filing and sanding (fig.32c)

STEP 33: SOFTEN EDGES

Use a file on the miter notch edges and then soften with course scrap sandpaper. Sharp edges are harder to paint. (fig.33a)

(fig.33a)

VSM 80 grit sandpaper, files for softening miter slot (fig.33a)

STEP 34: CLEAN WITH MINERAL SPIRITS

Clean angle iron and tubing with mineral spirits and a green Scotch-Brite Heavy Duty scouring pad. Wipe with clean rag before priming. (fig.34a)

table-saw-guide-rails-34a

Green scour pad and a can of paint thinner (fig.34a)

STEP 35: PRIME

Prime with high quality metal primer. I like Sherwin Williams Kem Kromik. (fig.35a, 35b, 35c)

table-saw-guide-rails-35a

Rollers, rags and Sherwin Williams primer. (fig.35a)

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Primed rectangular tubing for guide rail (fig.36b)

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Primed angle iron for guide rail (fig.35c)

STEP 36: PAINT

Paint with high quality paint. I like Sherwin Williams Sher kem. They have some great bright colors. (fig.36a, 36b, 36c)

table-saw-guide-rails-36a

Painting the rectangular tubing blue with a foam roller (fig.36a)

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Guide rail tubing painted with blue Sherwin Williams paint (fig.36b)

(fig.36c)

Guide rail angle iron painted with green Sherwin Williams paint (fig.36c)

STEP 37: CLEAN PAINT FROM THREADS

Use the 1/4″ 20 TPI tap in a cordless drill to clean paint from threads. (fig.37a, 37b)

table-saw-guide-rails-37a

Close up: cleaning out paint from thread using drill (fig.37a)

table-saw-guide-rails-37b

Using hand drill with 1/4 20 TPI tap to clear holes of excess paint (fig.37b)

STEP 38: BOLT ANGLE IRON TO SAW – ( Not Too Tight! )

Bolt the angle iron alone to table saw. It needs to be secure but a little loose. You will be making some micro adjustments in the last step. (fig.38a)

table-saw-guide-rails-38a

Final attachment of the angle iron to the table, don’t fully tighten yet (fig.38a)

STEP 39: BOLT TUBING TO ANGLE IRON – ( Tight! )

Bolt the tubing to the angle iron for the last time, using your parallel spacing set up. (Step-down spacers not needed yet.) Do your final tightening now!

NOTE: Very important to do this step BEFORE final tightening of the angle iron to the table because you will need to remove your parallel spacing setup. (fig.39a)

table-saw-guide-rails-39a

The final bolting of the tubing to the angle iron (fig.39b)

STEP 40: FINAL ANGLE IRON PLACEMENT – ( Tight! )

Get your step down spacing set up in place; Four clamps, two long boards and two small 13/16″ blocks. Position the angle iron and tubing unit into final position using your clamps. When final position is achieved, do your final tightening of the angle iron to table.

NOTE: Parallel spacing bar is removed for your final tightening so you can easily check the bolts and make sure they aren’t spinning. (fig.40a)

FINISHING TOUCHES:  Congrats you are done!  All you need to do now is to attach the tape measure to the tubing! (video below)

table-saw-guide-rails-40a

Final install of table saw guide rails (fig.40a)

How To Make Your Own Guide Rails

Below is the companion video playlist for this 40 step blog post.

How To Accurately Attach Your Tape Measure

The adhesive is permanent. You only get once chance to get it in place perfectly.

I have made several sets of guide rail for myself and others. Below are the three guide rail setups currently in my shop. I don’t have the router table finished, but I have the rails made.

Table Saw

Allan Little (AskWoodMan) with his table saw with shop made guide rails.
table saw guide rails

Table saw with VerySuperCool Tools t-square with aluminum extrusion fence.

Router Table

Allan Little at his router table (router not dropped in yet) with shop made guide rails.
router-table-guide-rails-askwoodman

Router table with VerySuperCool Tools t-square with aluminum extrusion fence.

Bandsaw

Allan Little (AskWoodMan) at his bandsaw with shop made guide rails.
bandsaw-guide-rails-askwoodman

Bandsaw table with VerySuperCool Tools t-square with aluminum extrusion fence.

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Table Saw Guide Rail Spacing (Parallel Gap)

Q: What is the correct guide rail spacing for my Biesemeyer style fence?

“I’m making my own guide rails, how do I make sure I get the gap just right between my tubing and my angle iron?”

A: You need a minimum of 3/4″ parallel spacing, perfectly even, the entire length of your tubing.

“The key to achieving the correct guide rail spacing for the parallel gap on your Biesemeyer style fence is to make sure you you have a minimum of 3/4″ , perfectly even, the length of the angle iron. I’ve made several guide rails and I like to use a long aluminum bar for my 3/4″ spacer. If you don’t have a 3/4″ bar handy, you can make one out of wood.

You’ll also need spacers to use as lifts. These lift spacers will ensure that the radius inside corner of the angle iron doesn’t interfere with this crucial spacing requirement. I used old wooden handles from foam brushes (dowels) for my lifts.

And yes you can have your parallel gap more than 3/4″ but I don’t know why you would want to. I like to have plenty of angle iron under my tubing, and 3/4″ is the perfect spacing. You just need to make sure that you have a FULL 3/4″ for the entire length of the angle iron.” ~ Allan Little

guide-rail-spacing-1
Using a small square and a marker to mark the initial bolt line relation between the tubing and the angle iron with parallel spacing in place.

You’ll note in the diy guide rail detailed steps blog post (40 steps in all) that there are four different times where you will be using your parallel spacing set-up.

STEP 7) To mark the bolt line (no clamping)

STEP 11/12) When you have the angle iron and tubing clamped together and mark through the holes in the angle iron with #7 drill bit onto the tubing

STEP 16) When you first bolt the tubing to the angle iron for initial alignment (not attached to table yet)

STEP 38/39) During final installation to the table.

guide-rail-spacing-2
3×3″ angle iron, 3×2″ tubing and 3/4″ steel bar in place for spacing. (lift in place by not in view)
guide-rail-spacing-3
Angle iron and tubing clamped upside down using Bessey LC8’s and parallel spacing set-up.

For this guide rail spacing set up you’ll need these items:

4 clamps (Any clamps will do.
The clamps pictured are my Bessey Rapid Action LC 8’s)
1 bar or a few blocks.
2 wood spacers to use as lifts

guide-rail-spacing-4
Tubing and angle iron clamped into position using the parallel spacing set up: 3/4″ parallel bar and wooden dowels for lifts
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WoodWhisperer Table Saw Fence Review “The Possibilities Are Endless. It Just Works.”

The WoodWhisperer table saw fence review of the VerySuperCool Tools fence system.

Read complete transcript from Marc Spagnuolo’s table saw fence video review below.

“Most American made cabinet saws come with a very similar fence. As long as you are spending a decent amount of money and are getting a good one, you’ll find it has what they call a Biesemeyer-Style fence. Where you have this very thick rail that the fence rides on, and the fence itself is sort of like a t-square shape, so that when you cinch it in place it locks it into a confirmation that is pretty much exactly where you set it. And it holds that position every time, no matter where you put the fence on the saw. So they are very reliable. This to me, is one of the best systems on the market and if you get a saw with something like a Biesemeyer style fence you’ll be much happier than some of the other crazy ones that are out there.

I used to own a Craftsman saw years ago that had a round rail and the system that you used to cinch it down, it just seemed to move the orientation of the fence so if I lock it down in one spot it doesn’t necessarily mean that if I move it six inches over and lock it down again that it would still be in alignment with the blade. So it’s a big problem on a table saw. So these fences are fantastic, but they are fairly limited. As you can see there is not much that you can do with this, and at the table saw, you know as well as I do, it’s all about jigs and other things that you can attach to the saw and to the fence that really make the table saw one of the useful tools in the workshop.

So what can we do with this saw to actually make it better, or how can we improve this fence really is what it comes down to. Well, fortunately there is a product out there now and I want to make sure you guys are aware of it because it’s a pretty good option. If you have a Biesemeyer Style fence you can upgrade to a VerySuperCool Tools fence. They sent me one to test out and I wanted to show it to you. So let me take this guy and put him out of the way here and show you the VerySuperCool Tools version which is this bad boy. Now this drops into your existing bar here, you don’t really have to do anything other than add the fence itself. The rail is still the same rail and it just works.


“The fence itself is an aluminum extrusion with all of these t-tracks in it. So now, really the possibilities are endless for what you can add to this. It’s built to be built upon.” ~ Marc Spagnuolo

Woodwhisperer Table Saw Fence Review
The WoodWhisperer Table Saw Fence Review

The cool thing about this you’ll notice first of all, is this is really the key to the whole thing is this aluminum extrusion part here. The fence itself is an aluminum extrusion with all of these t-tracks in it. So now, really the possibilities are endless for what you can add to this. It’s built to be built upon. As opposed to our standard fences where you just kind of have to rig something up or build something that cradles the fence system. This one will lock right in. Now this is brand new to me I’ve only had it for a couple of days so I haven’t really built anything for it that I can use to really show off it’s capabilities. I can’t wait to actually have a chance to dig into this stuff. But I will show you one of the tall fences that they sent me to try out. That should hopefully illustrate how useful this can be for you. Let’s check it out.

So what I have here is just a piece of Baltic Birch ply with some holes in it. This side has laminate on it which makes this a nice surface to ride your work up against, nice and smooth. And the bolts and screw heads here are recessed and counter bored holes, so this way, as you are moving your work piece across you don’t have to worry about contacting the heads of these screws. Now the t-track assembly accepts these little t-track nuts so as long as they are in alignment we should be able to get these on in these two tracks fairly easily.

Let me just tighten the fence down. Now we’ve got a nice tall auxiliary fence for running vertical pieces across the table saws. So maybe raised panels or anything where you have one of these larger panels that you need to work on the edge. You really need a tall fence for that. So this makes it really super easy to add an auxiliary fence.

Now another thing we need to be concerned about when you have a tall fence like this, is squareness. It needs to be perfectly square to the table, so if it’s not, it’s actually a very quick adjustment. All you need is an Allen wrench and you just make a slight adjustment to these nylon screws and that will tilt it one way or the other for really precise control for getting the squareness of this fence set.

“Another thing I really love about this fence system is the fact that is it dead straight.” ~ Marc Spagnuolo

Another thing I really love about this fence system is the fact that is it dead straight. This is something that doesn’t really happen that often when it comes to table saw fences. Most all of them have some sort of waviness to them that we have to deal with. Now, I’ll be honest, mine, I’ve got these plastic faces on there. Well every place a bolt holds it to the body, it winds up creating a bit of a valley, because the bolt is pulling that plastic material in. The good thing though, is as you are ripping, most of the time, the work piece, if it’s long enough, it just going to ride on the high points. So as long as those high points are in alignment, in the same, they are sort of parallel with your blade, you won’t ever really notice them. And they really are very, very small and minute. It may come into play if you are referencing in one of those valleys in a cross cut let’s say, and then you push forward and it goes out of that valley you may have registration issues. But most of the time, it’s a fairly minor factor, at least on my saw.

But, if you are fed up with yours, and you’ve got one that has lots of dips and valleys and you just can’t get a good straight registration off of it, something like this is absolutely awesome. This sucker is going to stay flat and it’s never going to be a problem. It’s just one less thing that you have to worry about.

Now I just looked around my table saw and I thought, what were the most common things that I try to do with the table saw that require some sort of accessory that I have either purchased or made. Here is a little stop, this kind of cradles/straddles my fence and allows me to reference from my fence but then gives me some extra room back here so that when the offcut is released it’s not caught between the fence and the blade. So something like this, I had to build. I’ve got another piece of the plastic material that my fence is made from, and I use this by burying the dado when I want to do something like a rabbit that goes right up to the edge. I bury it in there, but I need a special set of clamps to hold this to the fence. By the way the clamping system for this homemade guy is actually built in, I just use some of the knobs I got from Rockler and that holds it in place. This one is a purchased product, it usually runs about $80-$90 dollars. It’s a tenoning jig, very handy to have, but the cool thing is all three of these, and a bunch of other things that I can’t even think of off the top of my head, can be made to incorporate with this one existing fence. And I know on their website they actually do have a demonstration where you can actually see a tenoning jig made with this system which is absolutely fantastic. So no more array of clamps, you don’t have to worry about having the clamps holding things and being in your way. Half the time if you can get it clamped, the clamp head is usually in a precarious position or it might just be, flat out in the way of the work piece. So you have the option to avoid that with this system. So a lot of cool possibilities and hopefully in the future I’ll be able to really dig in and show you how this things starts to save you money in the long run.

“…a worthy upgrade, especially if you are sick of having a ton of accessories with different clamps and things like that for various set ups.” ~ Marc Spagnuolo

So clearly, I think this is a pretty cool product. But I get a lot of products sent to me, that don’t always make it into the form of video and put out to you guys. The reason I decided to focus on this one, aside from the fact that I think it is very useful to anyone who has a table saw, is really the fact that this is a company of two people. Two guys are doing this. Allan Little, who is AskWoodMan on YouTube you might recognize that name and his partner Jeff Fischer, who was one of his YouTube subscribers. They basically got together built this company and they are coming out with a whole array of products under the VerySuperCool Tools name. And as one small business to another, I’d really like to throw as much support to these guys as possible and it really, really, helps when it’s actually a good product. You know, something that they can really stand behind and something that I can tell you is a good product and I know you are going to enjoy it in your shop. So, I’d like to throw a little support their way when possible. So, check it out. I’m going to leave this on the table saw, I don’t see any reason at this point to go back to the one comes with my saw. I do think this was a worthy upgrade, especially if you are sick of having a ton of accessories with different clamps and things like that for various set ups. So check it out, it’s VerySuperCool Tools.” – end of transcript

See Marc Spanuolo’s original table saw fence review as published on TheWoodWhisperer.com Nov 29, 2012.

We highly recommend visiting TheWoodWhisperer.com for access to free podcasts, downloads, videos and even more product reviews. And in case you didn’t know, there is also The Wood Whisperer Guild for those that want to learn more and be part of an awesome woodworking community.

 

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If You Own A Biesemeyer Style Table Saw Fence You Can’t Afford Not To Have This Tool

Let me tell you about my VerySuperCool Table Saw Fence!

Last February, when I was watching AskWoodMan’s latest series “How to Make a Biesemeyer Table Saw Fence” and saw how he used an aluminum extrusion as a fence, I knew I had to have one.

I have been a woodworker and woodworking enthusiast for the past 26 years. I’ve watched countless hours of DIY and How To videos on YouTube. YouTube is such a great resource for new techniques and to see how other guys handle situations and scenarios that I may encounter.  I’m a fan of Marc Spagnuolo – The Wood WhispererMatthias Wandel, Steve Ramsey – Woodworking for Mere Mortals, and Allan Little – AskWoodMan.TV just to name a few. I have purchased plans, used ideas, and have been inspired to make projects from watching these guys. However, I had no idea a new table saw fence was about to change my entire workshop experience.

Aluminum Extrusion Table Saw Fence

I immediately saw huge potential for this unique & very versatile design.

This Biesemeyer table saw fence is a classic from the 1970's.

Inspired by the Beisemeyer design, which has been around since the early 70’s, Allan took it up a level. Now it is possible to own one table saw t-square and have multiple fences with various set ups attached. Allan and I have the same General 350 Table Saw, so I knew it would be a perfect fit. What I didn’t know were all the possibilities that would be opened up for me as a woodworker.

What I personally like the most about this aluminum extrusion table saw fence is how easy it is to attach jigs and fixtures. The extrusion thickness (Which is about 1/3 of the original Biesemeyer) is so much easier to work with. No more universal fence clamps. The slots provide all the connection points you need for accessories like feather boards, stops, tenon jigs and auxiliary fences.

Aluminum extrusion table saw fence in Jeff's shop.Guys I can’t tell you how much money and time I spent to get these jigs and fixtures to work on my Biesemeyer table saw fence. It is a great fence, don’t get me wrong, but this fence from VSC Tools brings together the best of both worlds. If you own a Biesemeyer style fence you can’t afford not to have this tool.

I’ve been using the VerySuperCool Universal T-Square Table Saw Fence System in my shop since March 15, 2012. It has changed the way I work and it WILL change the way you work too!